HMS Race Horse Build Log - Day 5 to 11

Day 5 to Day 11 - 20 Hours Work!!

With all the miniatures furnitures done, I've finally came to the planking part..

I've so much expectation on this because I didn't do the planking correctly on my Black Pearl.. So, I carried out this procedure very carefully. :)

Some say that the first planking should be done from the Garboard plank (lowest plank); while some say from the top.. Anyway, I started from the top as instructed in the manual (I regretted... :( )

So, the first batten (temporary)!!

The First  Batten

Front View

The first batten took me around an hour because I was so afraid of any mistake here will cause terrible result in the future.. And then, followed  by the 2nd temporary batten which I put it 4 planks away from the first one (12mm), following a standard planking method as shown:

How Temporary Battens Should Be Placed

Anyway, I stopped using this method after the first 'slot'.. it is just too time consuming, and not so effective since the planks provided by the kit are not so equal in width.. 

Tapering

As you can see from the picture above, the 2nd and 3rd planks are tapered in the front end. It's done so because the planks on bow are 'curved' up, and hence making the planks 'over crowded' if they are not tapered.

Over Tapered Aftermath

Picture above shows the result of over-tapering, a flaw can be clearly seen. This is the reason I stopped using the method.. So, I continued on the garboard plank instead. 

Garboard Plank

In a real ship, the garboard plank is usually wider; anyway, for a model ship it's ok to have the same width with other normal planks. I tested by using some waste wood strips before I use a new ones until it gave me the result like shown in picture above.

Same procedure is carried on until the plank touches each other at the bow side.

Check Symmetrical 

There is a Rule of Thumb of Planking says that plank tapering can never go exceed 1/2 of its own width.. For example, in my case my wood strips are 3mm in width, so I cannot taper it over 1.5mm.

Here's one good example of tapering I get from the net.. It's in Czech.

Tapering Technique

The sample above shows  the correct way of planking, and the incorrect one below. Anyway, it's optional... it depends how much detail you want to make you model ship. :) Since I want to be ready for my 2nd layer planking, I used the 1st method! (MORE THAN 9 HOURS WORK!! :D)

Body Planking Done

Tapering At Bow Side

Tapered Wood Strip

The Bow and Body side are now done.. Let's see the stern part..

So, this is the result at the stern side.. and it's time for the Stealers!!

Stealer Needed To Fill Up Gaps

This picture basically explain what a stealer is. Since the wood strips are curving and twisting too much, they will cause gaps at one end. To fill up those spaces, we need stealer planks.

How Stealer Planks Help Filling Up Gaps

Here's how I do it!! One full stealer and one half stealer

Full and Half Stealers Added

Full View with poop & front deck planking completed!

1st Planking Done Starboard Side

You can actually see a 'hole' there at the stern side as I trimmed the woods too early before I know they will need to cover that part.. :( Anyway, it can be easily filled up by filler! :D

1st Planking Done Bow Side

1st Planking Done Stern Side

Since the first plank was positioned, it's around 20 hours of working!! Maybe I'm still new in planking, that's why it took me so much time.. Anyway, the whole process was just so enjoying and the result is kinda satisfying! (for me :D)

- End of Day 11-

HMS Race Horse Build Log - Day 4

Day 4 - 5 Hours Work

As mentioned in the previous day, the cabin sits between bulkhead #10 and #11 where there's very limited space for me to design it. I drew plan to make sure everything sits right:

Draft on Captain's Cabin

So, I've only 49mm * 25mm of space for me to include everything into the cabin!!! This is going to be very challenging!! :D 

I started with the table first. Since I still kept all leftover wood pieces of my Black Pearl making, it makes my work easier... 

Table

No big issue on making this.. around 20mm * 8mm.

And then, the chair..

The Chair, Tiniest Among All

Making the chair is the hardest part. To make sure all these furnitures looks in ratio, the chair's seat needs to be only at 4mm * 4mm, and its legs at 1mm * 1mm!! The tiniest wood strips I have is only 1mm * 2mm, in which I'll have to cut them in two!! It took me around 30 minutes to complete this, after breaking few wood strips..

The Map!

Scroll Dip with Coffee to Give Vintage Effect

I've also made a map (ok, just a paper.. :P) to fill the table. In order to give it a vintage effect, I added some flavours on it :D 

I canceled my cabinet planning, and replaced it with a mirror. This idea came out when I was eating snack for my breakfast, which the inside of plastic bag is a good reflective body. :)

Mirror with Stands Using Previous Ship's Material

The stands are the leftover pinrail material from the Black Pearl, which I think suitable for this too. 

To fill up the big empty space on the port side, I added another pole hanger. It is made by using one copper nail as its pole, and copper rings as the hangers. It really took me sometimes to glue the hangers on the pole...

Pole Hanger Beside the Table

For the bed.. Too sad that I've forgotten to take photo on its progress..

It's done by using a 4mm thick wood piece, and few small pieces to tissue papers. I put a folded tissue beneath first, to make a 'bulge' effect, and then only 'wrapped' the whole thing up as a bed sheet. 

For the pillow, I cut out a long 'tissue-strip' and wrap it up at one end of a wood strip. Glued it, and then cut off the end of the strip. :)

Captain's Cabin As Seen to Stern Side

Take a close look, and you'll see a pen in a container on the table. :) The container is made by a spanker bead from my Black Pearl; while the pen is made by a refill of mechanical pencil! :) And yes, I made another chair to fill up the space! 

Captain's Cabin As Seen From Stern Side

Now left only a door to complete.. 

It's done by using the removed part from the half deck.. I added planks on it, and drilled a hole as sash of door, and then a nail as door knob! :)

Door to Captain's Cabin

So, it's how it looks like now!!! ^^

The Captain's Cabin

- End of Day 4 -

HMS Race Horse Build Log - Day 3

Day 3 - 6 Hours Work

Before I started Race Horse building, I've been thinking of making the interior of Captain's Cabin. So, I searched through the net to find one good example.. and here it is!!

The Interior of Captain's Cabin

Of course that's no way that I can make such complex cabin, this is just for a reference!! :) After few hours of planning and 'filtering', I've decided to add at least a table, a chair, a bed and a cabinet in my cabin.. 

Here's the plan!! 

Draft on Making Cabin

The red shaded area are region that need to be cut off. Part between bulkhead #10 and #11 will be the cabin; while part between #11 and #12 will an empty space between the cabin and the stern window.   

Window between Bulkhead #10 and #11

Comparing to the full scale plan, you can see that there'll be a window at both sides. This part will not have major issue. Planking is added on bulkhead #10 and #11 to give more detail view.

Planking on Bulkhead #10

Now, the stern window part.. which is much more difficult to handle. The reason I remove the area on #13 is because they are blocking the view from the stern window. However, if they are removed, it will cause minimum area for me to apply glue on it, which makes me no way to hold #12!

Removing Shaded Region of  #13

Now you can see how small is that area to hold #12. To solve it, I'll need to make another wood piece increase the surface to stick on #12.

Extra Wood used to hold #12

This extra wood will be placed between the tips of #13. Note that planking is already done also.

Holding Firm

#12 On Position

DONE!!! 

Anyway, #12 is actually temporary!! Because there is no 'holes' to allow people to see through it. I haven't had a clear plan on it yet, maybe I'll need to drill a 3 big holes on it; or I'll directly put the cast metal on! The purpose to put #12 on position temporarily is to give body planking a set point.

However, there's another issue here... the cast metal stern window doesn't fit perfectly! I have currently no idea on solving this. Anyway, I think that the double planking will cover that empty part. Let's put it aside first.

This Is So Not Good

So, after all these planning and cutting I can finally put my bulkhead on!! To make sure they are perpendicular to the keel direction, always use a 'right' rectangular object to help. In my case, I used a rubik's cube pieces. :)

Rubik's Cube Pieces to Help Positioning Bulkheads

After everything set, put the half deck bars in.. and they should in perfect position. :) 

All Bulkheads in Position

I actually checked again with decks inserted on, but didn't take picture. Anyway, there are many ways to check whether the ship is straight. :)

Check Whether It's Straight

- End of Day 3 -

HMS Race Horse Build Log - Day 2

Day 2 - 2 Hours Work

After healing from that silly cut, it's time to get back to work! 

I almost miss out the bulkheads beveling part which is so much important in ship modelling. Beveling is done to allow more area contact between the bulkhead and planks, so that planking can stick tight on position. Check out picture below:

Importance of Beveling 

The red circle shows that if beveling work is not done, minimal contact will cause weak joint between bulkhead and plank. Not only weak joint! But will also create unnecessary Clinker Effect. 

So, this is what I've done. The Sergal instruction shows only first few bulkheads need to be beveled, but I personally think it's best to do all. It doesn't take even 30 minutes after all!!

Beveled Bulkheads

OK, Let's get back to the signature! Which cost a scar on my big thumb!! 
I'm placing that right beneath the extra hatch that I make, which is between bulkhead #6 and #7. To make it looks better, I've also made planking within all visible area. 
The rectangular board is where the signature will be! :)

Sign HERE!

The stamp seal comes with 3 colours: gold, silver, and red. Since it will be dark inside, so I chose more shiny colours.. gold and silver!! :D

In the Melting Spoon

A breath on the copper seal head + a slight press on wax... oh ya, and a drippy drippy :D
I named it "Planet Z and Its Moon" XD

Planet "Z" and Its Moon

So, it's basically how it looks like now.. :)

Sit Fit!!!

- End of Day 2 - 

HMS Race Horse Build Log - Day 1

Brief History Background of HMS Race Horse

The ketch, a vessel with two-masted rig characterised by a main and mizzen mast, was often said to be "ship without a foremast". The Race Horse is a ketch.

In the 18th century, bombs comprising hollow metal spheres packed with explosive and with a  fuse were fired from large, short powerful cannon called mortars or bombards. Ships firing such large artillery pieces needed special strengthening to prevent their timbers moving apart or even breaking under the massive recoil. Racehorse is equipped with two bombards. The Racehorse and her sister ship Carcass were both fitted out and strengthened at Chatham dockyard in preparation for an arctic exploration - the exploration of 1773 in which Horatio Nelson served on the Carcass as midman. It was the strengthening to withstand the arctic pack ice that made these ships eminently suitable for use a bomb vessels.. 

During the war with Russia, the Britain Navy used twelve of these vessels, among which was the Race Horse. Race Horse was then converted to Thunder.

Day 1 - 5 hours Work

I purchased my Race Horse from Cornwall Model Boats on the 28th of December 2012. It is really a great model ships online store, with good services and price (always without tax for foriegners!!!). And I received my ship only after 2 weeks!!! 

Here it is!!

Race Horse of Sergal Mantua

And everything is good.

I added 10 sets of Cannon with carriages, some Cannon balls, 1 set of gratings, and a bell!

Items Inside the Box

Before making a model ship, you'll always need a clamp to hold it. You can either purchase one, or you can DIY!!! So, this is how I make it!

Not really diy actually.. just added a clamp on my tripod ballhead!! :D

My DIY Clamp

In order to protect the wood from over-clamping, I added rubber on it. It's actually badminton grip, kinna effective. :)

Added Rubber to Protect False Keel from Over-Clamping

This is how it looks like when holding a model ship.

Race Horse on Tripod

First problem...

Although laser cut, but still not so through. You can see there's no laser mark.

I haven't cut out the ruddle (on the most right, in case u can't figure out :P), will take it out next time when I am in a good mood.

Still with Quality Issues

So, here's my plan..

I want to make an extra hatch on deck (that's why I bought extra gratings), since there's a big empty space!

So, I cut off another 'square' there which is parallel to the bombard docking area..

Draft on the Extra Hatch Area

This is how it looks like after cutting out that area... I actually cut it smaller than planned, so that the gratings can sit on the border.

Extra Hatch Cut Out

I don't do this just for decoration!! But I want to make a 'signature' in my ship!! 

By using this!! An old Stamp Seal!!

Stamp Seal to make Signature

A 'board' will be added inside the ship, to hold my signature.

However, when I again put the deck on the bulkhead only I noticed that the half deck (alignment bar) is actually blocking it to see through..

Alignment Bar (Half Deck) is Blocking the View of Expected Signature Location

So, I removed that part that blocking.. within bulkhead 6 and 7..

Half Deck within Blocking Region Removed

Hope this won't cause a big deal in future.. since I can't rely only on the alignment bar to secure all my bulkheads in position.

Then, an accident happened. 

When i decided to make the board for my signature... I cut myself.. =.=

ON THE VERY FIRST DAY I MAKE THIS SHIP!!!

Deep Impact on the First Day

I'll have to stop working on today...

- End of Day 1 -