HMS Unicorn Build Log - Quick Review

HMS Unicorn of Corel - Kit Review

I've purchased the HMS Unicorn of Corel some months ago right after the completion of my Race Horse. I'm quite satisfy with the overall quality, and I think it's good to provide a simple review to anyone who is also interested in this kit. ;)

Pictures speak more than a thousand words!!! Check them out:

So, this is how it looks like in the box. :)

As you can see at the bottom of the box, there's a 'SM II'.. which mean this is already the 2nd version of the kit. So there are some mixing instruction of both versions.

HMS Unicorn Kit in Box

Unboxing...

Everything

What I can say about the instruction plans of Corel is just... meh... :(

The fonts of instruction plans (guiding steps) are too small (top in the picture) which is really tiring to read; while for the picture instructions are OK. If you have done model ship once or twice, then the information provided will be right enough. 

Anyway, for the masts and spars section... again, the pictures are too compact :( All are drawn in one page. You can imagine :D

Instruction Booklets

Wood quality is excellent!!! Even the plywood! At least compare to Sergal, that's a big different. :) Filler balsa blocks (bow and stern), ship display cardle are provided too!! :)) I'm very happy with that.

Keel and Deck

Many kinds of woods are used in this kit... walnut, maple, lime, mahogany, ebony, tanganyika, etc... Well and equally cut!! :) Same goes to dowels.

Wood Stips

Metals quality like figure head and anchors are good too.

Figure Head

Some poor fittings...

Despite the excellent wood quality, some wood fittings are badly done.. especially the capstan. Same goes to the gratings and small blocks. Anyway, deadeye and larger blocks are fine.

Capstan

I really love the cannons and carriages provided by Corel. :) The cannons are even blackened!! And the trunks are well shaped. 

Cannons and Carriages

Nothing much can do about the stern gallery... I mean there's no way a manufacturer can provide its customers very detail cast metals. Gonna remake them. Anyway, they can be good references on remaking :)

Stern Gallery

There are still many fittings that I haven't post here.. if you're interested in this kit and wish to have a closer look on them, let me know! 

Hope this helps!!! :)

HMS Race Horse Build Log - Day 4

Day 4 - 5 Hours Work

As mentioned in the previous day, the cabin sits between bulkhead #10 and #11 where there's very limited space for me to design it. I drew plan to make sure everything sits right:

Draft on Captain's Cabin

So, I've only 49mm * 25mm of space for me to include everything into the cabin!!! This is going to be very challenging!! :D 

I started with the table first. Since I still kept all leftover wood pieces of my Black Pearl making, it makes my work easier... 

Table

No big issue on making this.. around 20mm * 8mm.

And then, the chair..

The Chair, Tiniest Among All

Making the chair is the hardest part. To make sure all these furnitures looks in ratio, the chair's seat needs to be only at 4mm * 4mm, and its legs at 1mm * 1mm!! The tiniest wood strips I have is only 1mm * 2mm, in which I'll have to cut them in two!! It took me around 30 minutes to complete this, after breaking few wood strips..

The Map!

Scroll Dip with Coffee to Give Vintage Effect

I've also made a map (ok, just a paper.. :P) to fill the table. In order to give it a vintage effect, I added some flavours on it :D 

I canceled my cabinet planning, and replaced it with a mirror. This idea came out when I was eating snack for my breakfast, which the inside of plastic bag is a good reflective body. :)

Mirror with Stands Using Previous Ship's Material

The stands are the leftover pinrail material from the Black Pearl, which I think suitable for this too. 

To fill up the big empty space on the port side, I added another pole hanger. It is made by using one copper nail as its pole, and copper rings as the hangers. It really took me sometimes to glue the hangers on the pole...

Pole Hanger Beside the Table

For the bed.. Too sad that I've forgotten to take photo on its progress..

It's done by using a 4mm thick wood piece, and few small pieces to tissue papers. I put a folded tissue beneath first, to make a 'bulge' effect, and then only 'wrapped' the whole thing up as a bed sheet. 

For the pillow, I cut out a long 'tissue-strip' and wrap it up at one end of a wood strip. Glued it, and then cut off the end of the strip. :)

Captain's Cabin As Seen to Stern Side

Take a close look, and you'll see a pen in a container on the table. :) The container is made by a spanker bead from my Black Pearl; while the pen is made by a refill of mechanical pencil! :) And yes, I made another chair to fill up the space! 

Captain's Cabin As Seen From Stern Side

Now left only a door to complete.. 

It's done by using the removed part from the half deck.. I added planks on it, and drilled a hole as sash of door, and then a nail as door knob! :)

Door to Captain's Cabin

So, it's how it looks like now!!! ^^

The Captain's Cabin

- End of Day 4 -

HMS Race Horse Build Log - Day 3

Day 3 - 6 Hours Work

Before I started Race Horse building, I've been thinking of making the interior of Captain's Cabin. So, I searched through the net to find one good example.. and here it is!!

The Interior of Captain's Cabin

Of course that's no way that I can make such complex cabin, this is just for a reference!! :) After few hours of planning and 'filtering', I've decided to add at least a table, a chair, a bed and a cabinet in my cabin.. 

Here's the plan!! 

Draft on Making Cabin

The red shaded area are region that need to be cut off. Part between bulkhead #10 and #11 will be the cabin; while part between #11 and #12 will an empty space between the cabin and the stern window.   

Window between Bulkhead #10 and #11

Comparing to the full scale plan, you can see that there'll be a window at both sides. This part will not have major issue. Planking is added on bulkhead #10 and #11 to give more detail view.

Planking on Bulkhead #10

Now, the stern window part.. which is much more difficult to handle. The reason I remove the area on #13 is because they are blocking the view from the stern window. However, if they are removed, it will cause minimum area for me to apply glue on it, which makes me no way to hold #12!

Removing Shaded Region of  #13

Now you can see how small is that area to hold #12. To solve it, I'll need to make another wood piece increase the surface to stick on #12.

Extra Wood used to hold #12

This extra wood will be placed between the tips of #13. Note that planking is already done also.

Holding Firm

#12 On Position

DONE!!! 

Anyway, #12 is actually temporary!! Because there is no 'holes' to allow people to see through it. I haven't had a clear plan on it yet, maybe I'll need to drill a 3 big holes on it; or I'll directly put the cast metal on! The purpose to put #12 on position temporarily is to give body planking a set point.

However, there's another issue here... the cast metal stern window doesn't fit perfectly! I have currently no idea on solving this. Anyway, I think that the double planking will cover that empty part. Let's put it aside first.

This Is So Not Good

So, after all these planning and cutting I can finally put my bulkhead on!! To make sure they are perpendicular to the keel direction, always use a 'right' rectangular object to help. In my case, I used a rubik's cube pieces. :)

Rubik's Cube Pieces to Help Positioning Bulkheads

After everything set, put the half deck bars in.. and they should in perfect position. :) 

All Bulkheads in Position

I actually checked again with decks inserted on, but didn't take picture. Anyway, there are many ways to check whether the ship is straight. :)

Check Whether It's Straight

- End of Day 3 -